Elmira, NY: History, Fun Facts, & Nuances - for SHS 45th Reunion

Compiled by Jack Griff

 

 

Elmira History

 

-  Original town in Chemung County was Chemung, in 1788.  (Note - Chemung means "big horn" in Iroquois...from the wooly mammoth remains in area)

 

-  Town of Newtown established shortly after, at junction of Chemung River and Newtown Creek

 

-  The first documented Newtown settler was Abraham Miller of the Continental Army...he built a cabin just after resigning before the Revolutionary War (supposedly his house still remains, but haven't heard of it...but, we know of Miller Street, Miller Pond, etc...)

 

-  The Battle of Newtown, 29 August 1779, near present day Lowman, was led by Generals Sullivan and Clinton, and tamed the Indian uprisings, clearing the way for white settlement (the village of Horseheads is named after the many horse skulls found in the area by early "pioneers" after the campaign...)  

 

-   In 1792, the adjacent settlements of Newtown, Wisnerburg, and DeWittsburg joined into the Village of Newtown

 

-  In 1828, the Village of Newtown changed its name to Elmira

  --  Local legend has it that, while the city fathers were deliberating one evening on what to call the town, a local mother was heard calling her young daughter Elmira home, and thus...

 

-  The Chemung Canal by the 1820s connected Elmira, via Senaca Lake, to the Erie Canal...but the railroads soon followed, and became the dominant transportation means.  Elmira eventually became a significant east-west (Erie, Lackawanna, others) and north-south (Penna RR, others) hub...as did Corning and Hornell...all thru the 1950s and 60s...

 

-  In the 1861-1865 Civil War era, Elmira, due to its location and extensive railroad networks, became a marshalling point for the western NY area...Camp Rathbun was the enlistment, send-off point for many Upstate NY militia units, most of whom fought in the Northern Virginia campaigns, all the way though to Appomatox

 

-  Camp Rathbun was converted to a Civil War prison camp in 1864.  The site is completely gone now, except for a plaque in the back yard of a West Elmira home around Wisnor Street. The prison camp existed only 2 years (1864-65), but housed over 12,000 Confederate prisoners, and came to be known as "Hellmira" (or the "Andersonville of the North") as its hasty design and poor sanitation led to 2,900 deaths.

 

-  John Jones, an escaped slave, was prominent in the Underground Railroad history of Elmira, and classified all of the dead Confederates in the Civil War camp with meticulous record keepings...thus, the emergence of the  Woodlawn National Cemetery (Note - the John Jones home has recently been restored...)

 

-  The city grew steadily in the Industrial Revolution era (post Civil War are into the 1900s)...becoming an industry town dubbed the Queen City (it was bigger than Binghamton right up thru the 1920s...and such huge cities now as Tampa, Phoenix, Las Vegas, etc., where much smaller than Elmira well into the 1920s...or so...)

 

-  Of course, Mark Twain spent 20 straight summers at Quarry Farm in the 1870s thru 90s...and it is documented much of "Tom Sawyer," "The Adventures of Huckleberry Fin" and others were written in his study, built by the Langdon's in 1874.  He made is last trip to Elmira in 1907...after his wife, Olivia Langdon, had passed away (1904 in Florence, Italy).  He died in 1910

 

  --  How Twain met Olivia - on Twain's ship to Europe on the 1860s, he became buds with his suite mate, young Charles Langdon of Elmira, and was captivated by a cameo of his sister.  After his lengthy stay all over Europe, the Langdon's invited Twain to Elmira in 1868, where he eventually won "Libby's" hand.  They married at the Langdon home, by the Rev Thomas K. Beecher (he became one of Twain's best friends) on 2 Feb 1870 

 

   --  Twain, Olivia and their children are buried in Woodlawn...with other notables Hal Roach (early Hollywood producer/studio head - "Little Rascals" & "Our Gang" Comedies, etc), Ernie Davis (Syracuse All-American and first black to win the Heisman Trophy/1961), etc...

 

-  The Elmira Star Gazette is the first Gannet newspaper...founded by Gannett and Tripp in 1906...(Gannet is the news empire now that includes USA Today, etc)

 

 

Elmira Population Thru the Years

 

1890 - 30,893

1900 - 35,672

1910 - 37,176

1920 - 45,393

1930 - 47,397

1940 - 45,106

1950 - 49, 716 (high point, when we were in lower grade school)

1960 - 46,517

1970 -  39,945

1980 - 35,327

1990 - 33,724

2000 - 30,940

 

Ethnicity - from records I could dig up, show the Elmira/Chemung County population derives roughly from:

-  Irish - 18%

-  German - 17%

-  Italian - 11%

-  Black/African-American - 11%

-  English - 10%

-  Polish - 7%

-  French 3%

-  Dutch 3%

-  Plus, 1 to 2 % each of Scottish, Welsh, French Canadian, Swedish and Russian

 

Naturally, the Hispanic population has grown the most recently, from almost zero as recently as the late 1980s...

 

-  Chemung County peaked at 98,000 in the 1960s...and is ~91,000 today

 

-  However, Elmira serves as the central point in the 4-county Twin Tiers Chemung & Steuben in NY/Bradford & Tioga in PA) ...total population over 300,000

 

-  Elmira, NY has been designated one of the US government's 362 Standard Metropolitan Statistical Areas (SMSAs) since the 1960s...granted, on of the smaller, weighing in the high 200s...

 

-  It has been said that Elmira/Corning area is one of the few of its size that has its own:

 

--  Airport (USAir, Northwest, Continental, Pan Am Clipper)

--  Performing arts centers

--  Art museums (Arnot and Rockwell Museum of Western Art, etc)

--  Bus transportation network

--  Nature center (Tanglewood)

--  First Arena (minor league hockey, circuses, WWE, concerts, youth hockey, Harlem GlobeTrotters, home shows, etc)

--  Dunn Field (historic ball park since the 30s)

--  3 TV stations and numerous radio stations

--  A Fortune 500 Corporate Headquarters (Corning - with one of the biggest tourist attractions in NY State)

--  2 aviation museums (National Soaring Hall of Fame and Discovery Wings of Eagles)

--  State-of-the art medical centers (numerous)

--  Daily newspapers

--  Elmira College

--  LPGA Golf tourney (Corning CC)

--  Very active soaring (Harris Hill...still with many competitions)

--  Equestrian events (little known outside that community, but many regional northeast events every year...mostly at the Fair Grounds) 

--  Golf galore (Mark Twain Golf Course, designed by the famed Donald Ross, and developed as a works project in the depression era 30s, was rated the #1 public course value in the whole USA by Golf Magazine last year...)

 

-  Of course, most cities don't have 2 prisons either...(note - the Elmira Reformatory in the late 1800s initiated attempts to rehab prisoners, to get them back into society...that was an innovation at the time, called the "Elmira System"...adopted nationwide... )

 

 

Elmira - Just for the Fun of It

 

-  Elmira's current theme is "Honoring the Past, Building the Future"...featured on a new sign at the Church Street entrance off Rte 17/!-86

  --- The sign honors aforementioned Elmirans Twain, Roach, Davis, and Jones...along with Tommy Hilfiger, Eileen Collins, and Brian Williams (his childhood hero was TV newsman Carl Proper, who retired in Aug 2006 after a storied career at WETM-TV - NBC)

 

-  Jeanine Pierro is another prominent native - Westchester County DA, on TV a lot...and ran for NYS Attny General

 

-  Elmira was the home of American soaring from the 1930s on...via the 3 Schweitzer Brothers.  The company still exists, and it was just announced that Sikorsky will be adding jobs and facilities for Blackhawk helo work

 

-  The Mark Twain Hotel, from 1929 thru 1973 (now an apartment house for the elderly) hosted so many notables...Babe Ruth, actors, politicians, etc (can't find list now...have seen).  Was site of our Senior Prom (one of my tasks was hiring the band...ha...)

 

-  The annual NASCAR Nextel Cup race at Watkins Glen International in August is the biggest sporting event in NY State...attendance-wise...

 

-  The Eldridge Park carousel has been reconditioned for service...led by a local dentist.  The mechanism had remained in place all these years, and a fund-raising drive enabled the horses ands other animals to be produced.  A gala re-opening was held in May 2006...with Brian Williams appearing (Hilfiger, Pierro, and others had supported past few years) 

 

-  Elmira is somewhat of a medical center now, with Arnot-Ogden, St Josephs, the Elmira Psychiatric Center, a VA clinic...and the nearby Robert Packer and Guthrie complexes

 

-  No one can dispute the sad shape of downtown. with respect to shopping/entertainment (the First Arena, Clemens Center, and a few restaurants/bars aside) ...but, many businesses remain and weekday traffic is still plentiful (the new summer Thursday market is a hit...)

 

  --  And, the Big Flats commercial area has features we wouldn't have thought of a few years ago in Elmira - virtually all of the chain restaurants, Barnes & Noble (with Starbucks), Jos Banks clothing, Pier One, numerous new hotels/motels, Outback Steakhouse, etc...plus Best Buy, Target and Panera Bread just opened, with a new 24-hour Super Wallmart replacing the old one soon...whoopee...

 

Of course, one can never overlook our Appalachian hills roots...and the fact Elmira is a stonešs throw from the Finger Lakes, wine country, Watkins Glen, Ithaca/Cornell, Hammondsport (Glenn Curtis museum)...and twin city Corning, with Market Street shops/restaurants that remind us of the Elmira downtown of old...etc, etc...