The Krogen FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions)
                      Version 1.1.3 - October 29, 1998

Additions, comments, and corrections should be sent to:
        Bryant Vann, vann@his.com (please be patient, we're "cruisin'")

Many Krogen owners have had the experience of folks inquiring about our 
"salty" boats.  Many, like me, never seem to have all the answers on the tip 
of their tongue.  Here's my attempt to describe our boats and some of their 
characteristics.

This FAQ is a collection of information and pointers to other information 
sources on the boats produced by Kadey-Krogen Yachts and other closely related 
topics.  Please note: I am in no way connected with any company or 
dealer/broker mentioned herein.

It's focused mainly on the 42' trawler, since that's what I own (her name is 
Salty Lady) and know the most about.  Additional contributions are welcomed, 
and I'll be glad to add details of the others, if you'll send them to me.  I 
am particularly interested in information that would fill in any of the blanks 
that remain.

My special thanks to Ed Buddemeyer, Endurance, for graciously granting 
permission to reprint his memorandum on Powerboat Characteristics for all to 
enjoy.  Also thanks to Gale Mutum, Just Us Two, and Grant Breining, Carinya, 
for providing some tough-to-find details.  Another special thanks to Grant and 
his first mate, Astaar, for introducing us to Krogens in the first place.

(Krogen, a Swedish word for restaurant, I think!)

The following topics are addressed:

    1)  Overview of the Kadey-Krogen production boats
    1.1)  36' Manatee
    1.2)  38' Cutter
    1.3)  39' Trawler
    1.4)  42' Trawler
    1.5)  48' Whaleback
    1.6)  48' Trawler
    1.7)  54' Trawler

    2)  The 36' Manatee
    2.1)  Technical Description and Features
    2.2)  Production History and Variations
    2.3)  Operating Characteristics and Discussion

    3)  The 38' Cutter
    3.1)  Technical Description and Features
    3.2)  Production History and Variations
    3.3)  Operating Characteristics and Discussion

    4)  The 39' Trawler
    4.1)  Technical Description and Features
    4.2)  Production History
    4.3)  Operating Characteristics and Discussion

    5)  The 42' Trawler
    5.1)  Technical Description and Features
    5.2)  Production History and Variations
    5.3)  Operating Characteristics and Discussion

    6)  The 48' Whaleback
    6.1)  Technical Description and Features
    6.2)  Production History and Variations
    6.3)  Operating Characteristics and Discussion

    7)  The 48' Trawler
    7.1)  Technical Description and Features
    7.2)  Production History and Variations
    7.3)  Operating Characteristics and Discussion

    8)  The 54' Trawler
    8.1)  Technical Description and Features
    8.2)  Production History and Variations
    8.3)  Operating Characteristics and Discussion

    9)  Some General Information on Krogen-like Boats (including single-screw 
        maneuvering)
    9.1)  Full-displacement Boats - A Comparison With Other "Trawler"
          Types
    9.2)  Single Engine or Twin? - Some Comparisons
    9.3)  Backing A Single-Screw Trawler into a Slip -- Springing a Pile
    9.4)  Backing her in -- with dignity and grace!
    9.5)  Maneuvering the Single-Screw Trawler: The Art of "Goosing" to Make 
          360 Turns
    9.6)  Parallel Docking a Single-Screw Trawler with a Spring Line...
    9.7)  Choosing a Slip: On Port or Starboard?  And Going In Pointy End First...
    9.8)  Lassoing a Piling -- A LONG Way Away!

   10  Ritual Cocktail

   11)  The Owners Clubs
   11.1)  Krogen Cruisers
   11.2)  Krogen Cruising Club
   11.3)  Northwest Kadey Krogen Owners
   11.4)  The North Coast Krogen Gang

   11)  References
   11.1)  Books
   11.2)  Magazine Articles

   13)  Where can I find used Krogens on the Internet?

   14)  Where can I find folks shopping for a used Krogen on the 
        Internet?

   15)  The Company
   15.1)  Krogen Dealers/Brokers

   16)  ABOUT THIS FAQ
   16.1)  Who put this FAQ together?
   16.2)  How can I contribute to this FAQ?
   16.3)  May I distribute this FAQ?

   NOTES and DEFINITIONS:

--------------------------------------------------------------

0  Obligatory Disclaimer:
      I believe the information provided is reasonably accurate.   However, NO 
      warranty of any kind of its accuracy is provided or implied, and NONE 
      can be assumed.  I assume NO liability of ANY kind for damages resulting 
      from its use for any purpose.  This FAQ is not intended to provide 
      rigorous technical information on these vessels, but just to provide a 
      general description and discussion of the them, as might be of interest 
      to a potential owner or operator.  

1  Overview of the Kadey-Krogen Production Boats

1.1  36' Manatee - trawler type, about 100 made, not currently in production.  
Amazingly roomy interior for its length.  Many used by live-aboards and full-
time cruisers.  (Don't let the snub-nosed profile put you off!)

1.2  38' Cutter - A real cruising sailboat

1.3  39' Trawler - a new boat in 1998.  Scaled down replacement for the 42' 
Trawler, for which production ceased in 1997.

1.4  42' Trawler - about 200 made over the past 20 years, no longer in production.  
Very popular with full-time coastal cruisers and live-aboards.  Some used as 
passagemakers, as well.

1.5  48' Whaleback - recent addition to the line, roughly a dozen made to 
date, still in production.  Called by some a "Manatee on steroids."  
Incredibly roomy interior.  Outstanding live-aboard boat.

1.6  48' Trawler - hull #1 shipped to US in late '95.  Hull #2 also delivered 
(and most likely a half dozen more).  Looks almost exactly like a 42' Trawler 
scaled up.  Hull is made from same mold as 48' Whaleback.  Same technical and 
performance specifications as the 48' Whaleback.

1.7  54' Trawler - ketch-rigged trawler.  Eight of them built.

2  The 36' Manatee

2.1  Technical Description and Features

Full-displacement hull.

LOA..............................36'-4"
LWL..............................34'-0"
Beam.............................13'-8"
Draft.............................3'-2"
Displacement (half load?)......23,000 lbs
Fuel..............................280 gals
Water.............................300 gals
Approx. Range: .................1,100 nm
Bridge clearance (Mast up).......22'-6"
Bridge clearance (mast down).....14'-0"
Gross tonnage....................____
Net tonnage......................____
Engine room volume.............________ft
Engine........................100 hp Diesel
                        (turbo-charged Volvo Penta TMD 31A)

Hydrostatic data:

Displ/length ratio (D/L)........221*
A/B ratio.......................3.7
Prismatic coef. (PC)............0.56*
Lbs/inch immersion..............1,600 lbs/in*
Moment to trim one inch.........2,900 ft-lbs*
L.C.B...........................49.8% aft*
L.C.F...........................52.1% aft*

Stability:

GM (approx).....................4.6 ft*
Range of positive stability.....90+ degrees (based on windows remaining intact)*
KM at design LWL................11.77 ft.*
Maximum Righting Moment.........34,000 ft. lbs.*
KG (half load)..................6.3 ft*

* Data provided by KC member Richard Sears from a letter from Kadey Krogen Yachts, Inc.

Construction:

Closed-cell PVC foam cored, full-displacement hull.

2.2  Production History and Variations

Over 90 of the boats were made between 1984 and 1991, when production ended.  
Standard configuration has single stateroom forward.  Alternative 
configuration has two staterooms, with guest stateroom forward and owner's 
stateroom amidships.

2.3  Operating Characteristics and Discussion

Perhaps the most dramatic feature of the Manatee is the large amount of 
liveable space for a craft of her length.  Since she has no side decks, the 
salon runs the full width of the boat, making it wider than the salon in the 
42'.  Because her beam is constant to well forward, the master stateroom, 
which in the most popular option is located in the bow, is also very large.  
Another excellent feature, especially for live-aboards, is the large, covered, 
aft cockpit (8' x 12') -- again, larger than the aft cockpit on the 42 -- 
which has been enclosed with side curtains by many owners, adding an 
additional room, usable in most weather, warm or cool.

Approximate price range of used boats: $80K to $130K

3 The 38' Cutter

3.1  Technical Description and Features

LOA..............................38'-2"
LWL..............................32'-1"
Beam.............................12'-8"
Draft (Shoal-draft version) ......3'-2" (board up), 6'8" (boards down)
      (Keel version)              5'-0"
Displacement ........... ......24,000 lbs
Sail Area....................  ...858 sq. feet
Mast above water................_____ feet
Fuel............................ ..80 gals
Water............................ 140 gals
Ballast.........................7,000 lbs
Auxiliary Engine................Perkins 4-108, 50 hp (earlier boats)
                                Westerbeke W46, 46 hp (later)

Ballast/displacement ratio.......   30%
D/L ratio........................_____
Sail Area/L ratio................_____

3.2  Production History and Variations

Most of the boats are the tandem (fore-and-aft) centerboard, shoal-draft 
version.

3.3  Operating Characteristics and Discussion

__________________________________________

4  The 39' Trawler

(Thanks to Mike Ford, the proud owner of 39 Trawler hull #1, for the 
following info.)

4.1  Technical Description and Features

Full-displacement, full-keel hull.

LOA..............................38'-11"
LWL..............................36'-8"
Beam.............................14'-2"
Draft............................ 4'-3"
Displacement...................35,000 lbs @ half load
Fuel............................700 gals - in 2 (P&S) 350 gal. steel
                                                epoxy-coated tanks
Water.......................... 350 gals - in 1 s/s tank forward amidships
Ballast........................ 2000 lbs - encapsulated cast iron
Holding tank.................... 35 gal. Sealand

Machinery:

Engine (standard)...............80 hp @2500rpm John Deere #4039DFM
                                               w/ 24" X 15" prop.
                                               (Twin Disc 2.44:1 Gear and
                                               1-3/4" Aquamat 22 shaft)
       (optional)...............115 hp @2400rpm John Deere #4045TFM
                                               w/ 26" X 17" prop.
                                               (2.39:1 Gr.)
Rudder.........................Stainless Steel w/shoe
Steering/Eng.Controls..........Hydraulic (dual station)
Fuel Filters...................Dual Racor w/ vac. gauge
Bilge Pumps....................(4) Rule 2000 GPH
Water Heater...................12 gallons
Battery Charger................50 amps
Engine Alternator .............105 amps - Delco


Estimated Range:                              

Standard 80 hp Engine........@9 knts (2300 rpm)..........1350 nm
 (Per Krogen*)               @8 knts (2150 rpm)..........1750 nm
                             @7 knts (1725 rpm)..........2500 nm
                             @6 knts (1400 rpm)..........3100 nm

Optional 115hp Engine........@10 knts (2400 rpm).........1050 nm
 (per Krogen*)               @ 9 knts (2150 rpm).........1350 nm
                             @ 8 knts (1830 rpm).........1750 nm
                             @ 7 knts (1470 rpm).........2420 nm
                             @ 6 knts (1200 rpm).........3050 nm

           * From Krogen Speed/Range charts, which may be a bit conservative.
             Other calculations incorporating John Deere's burn rate data
             (gph@rpm/shp) have indicated significantly higher potential ranges
             ranges between 6 and 8 knots. Time and testing will tell.

Hydrostatic Data:

D/L Ratio....................318
A/B Ratio....................(________)
Prismatic Coefficient........0.62
Lbs/inch immersion...........1,800 lbs/inch
Moment to trim one inch......3,620 ft-lbs.
L.C.B........................51% aft
L.C.F........................55% aft

Stability:

GM (approx)..................(________)
Range Positive Stability.... 85 degrees +
KM at design LWL.............(________)
Maximum righting moment......(________)
KG (half load)...............(________)

4.2 Production History

Hull #1 "popped" about the 1st week in Feb., 1998 with an expected May 1st 
delivery.  Subsequent deliveries are projected at about one boat per month. 
Krogen currently (Feb. '98) has 9 or 10 boats pre-ordered.

4.3  Operating Characteristics and Discussion

Lacking an existing prototype, some information/data is "Guesstimated".

The K39 hull is a computer-scaled-down version of the K42 with some similar 
layout features, and can reasonably be expected to have similar, but not 
necessarily identical performance & handling  characteristics.  The boat has 
full side decks port and starboard (no wide-body option), and a trunk cabin top 
forward, giving a slightly lower profile and with less "rake" on the Pilothouse 
windows than on the K42.  Also, the sole of the Salon area is closer to the 
waterline than in the K42. The Boat Deck and Fly-bridge areas are the same 
as the K42.

Krogen currently intends this boat as a strictly "production" (verses custom) 
series, and limits builder-installed options to the larger engine, an extra window 
on the rear Salon bulkhead, the optional swim platform and some fabric color 
choices, and will offer no alternate layouts or custom configurations at this 
time.

The K39 layout features a large centerline queen Stateroom and Head w/ stall 
shower forward and down a ladder from the Pilothouse, with a stand-up Engine 
Room w/workbench aft of the Stateroom, under the Pilothouse.  The Galley-
Salon area aft and down a half-level from the Pilothouse is a scaled down, but 
very similar layout to the walk-around version of the K48, with Galley to 
starboard, Desk to port, and Dinette aft to starboard, full-length settee to port.

5  The 42' Trawler

5.1  Technical Description and Features

Full-displacement, full-keel hull.

LOA..............................42'-4"
LWL..............................39'-2"
Beam.............................15'
Beam (over rub rails)............15'-8""
Draft.............................4'-7"
Displacement (half load).......39,500 lbs
Fuel..............................700 gals
Water.............................360 gals
Ballast.........................2,500 lbs
Approx. Range: 8 kts............2,150 nm
               7 kts............3,200 nm
               6 kts............5,000 nm
Bridge clearance (Mast up).......22'-9"
Bridge clearance (mast down).....14'-0"
Gross tonnage....................32.9
Net tonnage......................26.3
Engine room volume.............550 cu. ft (54" headroom)
Engine.......................120-135 hp Diesel
               (normally aspirated Ford-Lehman on the older boats)
Propeller                     28", 3-bladed

Hydrostatic data:

Displ/length ratio (D/L)........294
A/B ratio.......................2.2
Prismatic coef. (PC)............0.60
Lbs/inch immersion..............2,000 lbs/in
Moment to trim one inch.........4,250 ft-lbs
L.C.B...........................51% aft
L.C.F...........................56% aft

Stability:

GM (approx).....................3.9 ft
Range of positive stability.....85 degrees

Construction (Late-model production):

Solid, hand-laid PPG Combo mat fiberglass below the waterline (early boats had 
PVC foam below the water line).  Closed cell PVC sandwich core used in 
topsides and superstructure.  End-grain balsa-cored pilot house and boat deck.  
Vinylester resin used in first two laminates below the waterline (not used on 
the older boats).  Exterior finish US Ferro gelcoat.  3M 5200 sealants used at 
hull-to-deck and boat-deck joints.  Marine-grade plywood bulkheads with 
mahogany stringers and frames.

5.2  Production History and Variations

Initially produced in 1979 (or possibly as early as 1977).  Although the company
says they're no longer producing the 42 as of late 1997, they might just make
one or two more on special order, we've heard.

On the first few boats the boat deck did not completely cover the after cockpit.

Switched from 120 Ford-Lehman to 135SP Ford-Lehman at hull # ____ in 1985.

Switched from 135SP Ford-Lehman to various others, including American Diesel 
135, Perkins 130, (Sabre 135?) at hull # ____ in 199__, when Lehman stopped 
producing them.

Introduced molded headliners at hull # 66 in 1984.

Switched from coated-cable lifelines at bow to teak handrails at hull # 66 in 
1984.  Switched from teak handrails at bow to stainless steel at hull # _____ 
in 198__.

Switched to solid fiberglass below the waterline from PVC foam core at hull # 
___ in 19(93?).

Additional construction history information from Kadey-Krogen Yachts:

Hulls 1 through 6:

Hull:             Fiberglass sandwich construction, PVC core - gelcoat 
                  finish

Main deck:
(fore deck, alleyways,
 aft deck)        Wood deck beams, plywood, fiberglass and teak.
Boat deck:        Fiberglass sandwich with plywood squares 4" x 4" core
                  with teak over, wood overhead beams, painted with teak 
                  cap on interior, peg board and later fiberglass sheets 
                  on exterior overhead.

Pilothouse:       Same as boat deck, but no teak
Deck house side:  Plywood, glass covered

Hulls 7 through 65:

Hull:             Fiberglass sandwich construction, PVC core (gelcoat 
                  finish)

Main deck:        Wood deck beams, plywood, fiberglass and teak.
Boat deck:        Fiberglass sandwich with plywood squares 4" x 4" core,
                  wood overhead beams, painted with teak cap on interior,
                  peg board and later fiberglass sheets on exterior overhead
                  

Pilothouse top:   Same as boat deck
Deck house side:  Single laminate, fiberglass with wood stiffeners glassed to 
                  inside

                  Superstructure and deck were all painted with PU paint

Hulls 66 to hull #___ in 19__:

Hull:             Fiberglass sandwich construction, PVC core (more recently 
                  solid fiberglass below the waterline and foam core above).

Main deck:        Fiberglass sandwich with plywood squares as core Ð interior 
                  fiberglass overhead liners throughout
Boat deck &:
Pilothouse:       Balsa core, fiberglass sandwich with balsa core

House sides:      Fiberglass sandwich with PVC core

                  Chien Hwa used plywood squares in boat deck on last few 
                  boats built (150's), without KKY knowledge

                  Now foredeck is balsa core. (from hull # 165)

Most 42s have two heads, with the forward (owner's) stateroom having a double 
berth, offset to starboard.  A number have a single head with a larger forward 
stateroom with centerline queen berth.  Some have two single bunk beads on the 
starboard side forward.  At least one has the owner's stateroom in the mid-
section, with a circular staircase up to the Pilot House.  The wide-body 
variation, initially produced in 1989, has it's salon built all the way to the 
port gunwale with the starboard side deck as on the others.

5.3  Operating Characteristics and Discussion

Cruising speed with the 135SP Lehman is 7.5 to 8.0 knots.  Range at these 
speeds is 2,200 to 2,800 nm.  Soft chines and high deadrise give an easy, 
rolling motion, even with following seas.  This is in marked contrast to the 
many semi-displacement "trawlers" of similar size with broad, flat transoms 
and flat bottoms near the stern, which reportedly have a harsher, jerky 
motion.  At least two west-coast boats are reported to have been modified to 
carry flopperstoppers built according to a design by Jim Krogen.

Most of the 42s are used as coastal cruisers, including the Bahamas and the 
Gulf of Mexico, although one 42, CARPE DIEM, has made the trip from Chesapeake 
Bay through the Bahamas to the Virgin Islands, the Windward Islands, and on to 
the coast of Venezuela.  From there the trip took them to the Panama Canal, up 
the coast of Mexico, and on to California and Seattle.  Several are reported 
to make the trip from Baja California to Alaska several times a year.  Another 
has reportedly made passages direct from Tortola, BVI, to Norfolk.  Yet 
another 42, SAGE (hull #26), (more recently called YARINEL) went from Lake 
Superior in late 80's down to Venezuela and returned.  Another 42, HELEN M, 
reported she made an "uneventful" 4-day crosing from Galveston, TX, to Isla 
Mujeres, Mexico (690 miles). Her favorite places on the cruise included Rio 
Dolce and Guatemala. The return trip was from Isla Mujeres to Fort Myers, FL 
(430 miles).  The boat is clearly capable of making offshore passages, 
although prudent skippers will take care, of course, to prepare any boat 
properly for these voyages -- covering the windows with Lexan plates and 
considering the addition of anti-roll systems, either active or passive.  
(Plans are available from the builder for adding paravane-type 
flopperstoppers.)

Visibility from the flying bridge is excellent, especially in tight docking 
situations.  Although the stern cannot be seen directly from this position, 
the fact that the stern lies directly beneath the edge of the upper deck makes 
judging close situations easy.  Many boats have been equipped with large 
biminis, and their crews often spend most of their time underway and at anchor 
on the upper deck.

The upper deck carries up to an 11' dinghy easily.  Depending on the exact 
configuration, it may be possible to carry a slightly larger one.  The 
hoisting boom is reportedly stressed to lift up to 500 pounds, although either 
an upgraded tackle and/or electric or large manual winch would be required.

A number of the boats have bow thrusters, and although these provide some 
finesse in docking, in strong cross-winds and/or current they are no 
substitute for single-engine boat-handling skills!  Coming from sailboats (as 
many other Krogen owners do), I find the Krogen 42 considerably easier to back 
down in tight situations than fin-keel sailboats.

The raised pilot house is a prominent feature of the boat, providing a 
completely separate helm station which permits all activities to continue in 
the salon, galley, etc. without disturbing the safe operation of the boat.  A 
pilot berth (which converts to a double at anchor) just aft of the helmsperson 
is an excellent place for the off-watch crew in a shorthanded passage to catch 
forty winks while being immediately available to render assistance if needed.

The covered afterdeck is also a key feature, providing, in effect, a lovely 
sitting porch in warm weather, rain or shine.  Many live-aboards have enclosed 
this deck with doors leading forward to the side decks and plastic side 
curtains.  This provides an extra room in cooler weather and in inclement 
weather dockside, when the wind won't be coming over the bow as at anchor.

It is an excellent live-aboard boat, used for this purpose by roughly 25% of 
the owners.  The foam-filled hull provides good insulation from the cold water 
in winter.

The engine room provides a large space that is more than adequate for 
maintenance of ship's systems and it has plenty of room for gensets, 
refrigeration, air conditioning, watermakers, etc.  Those of us who came to 
trawlers from sailboats may have thought of these items as luxuries for years.  
However, it is remarkable to read the experiences of serious full-time 
cruisers who eventually want to add all or most of these items eventually.  It 
is certainly pleasant to have the room to comfortably install and maintain 
these systems.

Approximate price range of used boats: $150K to $320K

6  The 48' Whaleback

6.1  Technical Description and Features

Full-displacement hull.

LOA..............................48'-5"
LWL..............................48'-5"
Beam.............................16'-8"
Beam (over rub rails)............17'-3"
Draft.............................5'-0"
Displacement (half load).......56,200 lbs
Fuel............................1,020 gals
Water.............................540 gals
Ballast.........................4,500 lbs
Approx. Range: 9 kts............1,450 nm
               8 kts............2,000 nm
               7 kts............2,550 nm
               6 kts............3,000 nm
                      (includes 1 gal/hr for genset)
Bridge clearance (Mast up).......30'-0"
Bridge clearance (mast down).....17'-6"
Gross tonnage....................70.62
Net tonnage......................56.60
Engine room volume..............520 cu. ft.
Forward machine space volume....450 cu. ft.
Engine.......................Cat 3208 (210 hp) Diesel

Hydrostatic data:

Displ/length ratio (D/L)........268
A/B ratio.......................2.6
Prismatic coef. (PC)............0.60
Lbs/inch immersion..............2,600 lbs/in
Moment to trim one inch.........6,272 ft-lbs
L.C.B...........................51.8% aft
L.C.F...........................55.8% aft

Stability:

GM (approx).....................4.29 ft.
Range of positive stability.....110 degrees
KM at design LWL................11.15 ft.
Maximum righting moment.........136,800 ft-lbs
KG (half load)..................6.86 ft.

Construction:

Solid, hand-laid PPG Combo mat fiberglass below the waterline.  Closed cell 
PVC sandwich core used in topsides and superstructure.  End-grain balsa-cored 
pilot house and boat deck.  Vinylester resin used in first two laminates below 
the waterline.  Exterior finish US Ferro gelcoat.  3M 5200 sealants used at 
hull-to-deck and boat-deck joints.  Marine-grade plywood bulkheads with 
mahogany stringers and frames.

6.2  Production History and Variations

Initial production 1993.  At least 8 have been launched.

6.3  Operating Characteristics and Discussion

Essentially a Manatee on steroids.  As in the case of her smaller sister, an 
incredible amount of living space for her length.

Approximate price range of used boats: $330K to $500K

7  The 48' Trawler

7.1  Technical Description and Features

LOA..............................48'-5"
LWL..............................45'-5"
Beam.............................16'-8"
Beam (over rub rails)............17'-3"
Draft.............................5'-0"
Displacement...................56,000 lbs
Fuel............................1,000 gals - in three steel tanks
Water.............................500 gals - in two stainless steel tanks
Ballast.........................4,500 lbs
Holding tank capacity.............100 gals - fiberglass tank
Generator..........................12 kW Northern Lights with sound shield
Charger/inverter................2,500 watt Freedom Heart Interface
Approx. Range: 9 kts............1,450 nm
               8 kts............2,000 nm
               7 kts............2,550 nm
               6 kts............3,000 nm
                      (includes 1 gal/hr for genset)
Bridge clearance (Mast up).......__'-__"
Bridge clearance (mast down).....__'-__"
Gross tonnage...................._____
Net tonnage......................_____
Engine room volume..............___ cu. ft.
Forward machine space volume....___ cu. ft.
Engine.......................Cat 3208 (210 hp) Diesel

Hydrostatic data:

Displ/length ratio (D/L)........267
A/B ratio.......................2.6
Prismatic coef. (PC)............0.60
Lbs/inch immersion..............2,600 lbs/in
Moment to trim one inch.........6,272 ft-lbs
L.C.B...........................____% aft
L.C.F...........................____% aft

Stability:

GM (approx).....................____ ft.
Range of positive stability.....___ degrees
KM at design LWL................_____ ft.
Maximum righting moment........._______ ft-lbs
KG (half load)..................____ ft.

Construction:

Same as 48' Whaleback.  Hull is made from same mold.

7.2  Production History and Variations

Hull #1 delivered in late 1995.  Hull #4 on order.  "Classic" version is 
similar in appearnce to 42' Trawler.  "North Sea" version has reverse-raked 
pilothouse windshield.  It is also available as a "widebody."

7.3  Operating Characteristics and Discussion

Looks like scaled-up 42' Trawler with nearly identical layout.  Larger pilot 
house, mid-ship stateroom, after cockpit, and boat deck.  Two heads in the 
version with centerline queen in forward stateroom.

8  The 54' Trawler

8.1  Technical Description and Features

LOA..............................54'-5"
LWL..............................47'-11"
Beam.............................17'
Draft............................ 5'-6"
Displacement (half load)... ...67,800 lbs
Fuel............................1,200 gals
Water.............................600 gals
Ballast.........................6,000 lbs
Engine.......................Super Ford Lehman 225 hp Diesel

Hydrostatic data:

Displ/length ratio (D/L)........275
A/B ratio.......................2.2
Prismatic coef. (PC)............0.60

8.2  Production History and Variations

About 8 boats were made (a couple had twin engines).  Production was sold to a 
European company.  The boats have two aluminum masts and booms with a crow's 
nest on the forward mast.  A 20 KW generator was standard.

8.3  Operating Characteristics and Discussion

The cruising range at 7 knots is 3,500 miles -- at 8 knots, it's 2,500 miles.

9  Some General Information on Krogen-like Boats (including single-screw 
   maneuvering)

9.1  Full-displacement Trawlers - A Comparison With Other Boats

This is an article written by Ed Buddemeyer and published in the Krogen 
Cruisers newsletter, Spring 1991 and Summer 1991 issues.

                            MEMORANDUM

TO: Yacht Dealers/Brokers
FROM: E. Ulric Buddemeyer
RE: Powerboat Characteristics

Like cars, horses, and women, a yacht may be fast or comfortable, but not 
both.  Unlike the others, a yacht also has to go to sea.  The constraints, 
then, are speed, comfort, and seaworthiness, and the design is a compromise 
depending upon which attributes are most favored.  Before falling hopelessly 
in love with a fiberglass-lined hole in the water, it is well to have a hard 
look at the form which necessarily follows the function.

When comfort is the leading consideration and seaworthiness can largely be 
ignored, what follows is a design which does fine tied up securely to a pier.  
Generally know as "motor yachts," they might as well be described as marine 
conversions of shore-side motor homes.  That's what they're built for and they 
look it.  In profile view, they appear to be a couple of boats high, the 
better to accommodate fore and aft staterooms with heads and showers, raised 
saloon, galley, and lounge and flying bridge with extended hardtop covering 
the lot.  Side decks and aft cockpit are sacrificed for the sake of greater 
room below, so that it is awkward to handle lines when coming alongside.  To 
support all that tophamper, even at rest, they must be broad in the beam and 
nearly flat bottomed all the way aft to the transom.  To persuade such 
contraptions to move through the water at all requires a great deal of 
power;to get them to move fast takes even more.  Power is available at a 
price, though, and with enough of it, together with trim tabs to make up for 
the tendency to squat when pushed hard, even ungainly hulls can be driven 15 
or 20 knots over calm waters.  On the down side, they behave under way with 
all the grace and agility that might be expected of a buoyant box wrapped 
around an apartment.  When it blows the least bit, they are dangerous at sea 
and better off in their slips.  I can't put up with that constraint.

When speed is the leading consideration, seaworthiness a real concern and the 
accommodation fitted into the space left over, the result is a sportfisherman 
or something very like it.  At my own yacht club, one such specimen of the 
breed is named "NO COMPROMISE," a forthright declaration of no-nonsense 
purpose.  To engage effectively in the business of sportfishing, a yacht must 
necessarily be strong, powerful, fast, and able.  While lavish accommodations 
are always nice to have, the hull and topsides cannot be bent all out of shape 
for the sake of superfluous creature comforts without spoiling the 
performance.  The yacht is a sportfisherman, appears to be a businesslike 
vessel and can't be mistaken for a floating condominium.  Were I more 
interested in fishing, or even just getting around in the Bay in a tearing 
hurry regardless of expense, that's the way I'd go.

Where comfort and seaworthiness are major concerns and speed can be neglected, 
trawler yachts are often thought to fit the bill, but most are disappointing.  
Real trawlers are pure displacement hulls built to heavy scantlings and 
designed to keep the sea.  Yacht trawlers imitate the real thing in appearance 
and in that they are ordinarily operated efficiently at displacement speeds, 
but there the resemblance to their seaworthy sisters ends.  Most are built 
with the so-called "semi-displacement" hulls, a compromise which means that if 
anyone is fool enough to load them up with excess horsepower, they might 
struggle up on their broad, flat, heavy behinds onto a laboring semi-plane at 
a blazing ten or twelve knots.  Their behavior in a following sea is, if 
anything, worse than the faster sort of dockwalloping motor yacht, as the 
trawler cannot possibly outrun the waves and so gets shoved around by the 
stern, tripping over the bow and constantly threatening to broach.  Such 
misbehavior is characteristic of slow, flat-transomed, semi-displacement hulls 
and can get dangerously out of hand in seas of no more than moderate size.  
I've had quite enough of that.

There are a few designs which might be called "no compromise" trawlers.  These 
are full displacement hulls with no pretensions of speed.  They can be laden 
with all sorts of creature comforts with negligible effect on their sedate 
pace through the water.  Since there is no intention of lifting the whole 
works onto any kind of semi-fast plane, the after sections need be neither 
broad nor flat.  All boats are fine at the bow but displacement hulls may also 
be narrowed and rounded aft as well so as to yield to overtaking seas without 
stumbling.  At displacement speeds, deep draft is not an impediment, so that 
the hulls can be fitted with a proper keel having a firm grip upon the water, 
large attached rudder, protected prop and inherent directional stability.  
Power requirements are modest, operation is economical and the range is 
therefore very long.  When speed can be sacrificed, the sea-kindly, full 
displacement hull is the best way to go the distance in reasonable safety and 
comfort, altogether a sensible arrangement for anyone who expects to spend a 
considerable amount of time away from the shore.

There is yet another alternative worth considering for the man who wants to go 
to sea in safety, get there and back at a smart pace, and doesn't require all 
the luxuries of home along the way.  That is the yacht version of the "Down 
East" work boat.  Out of that sturdy heritage come hulls built with serious 
purposes in mind, among which are sea-keeping ability together with a good 
turn of speed, both obtained in economical operation.  They are long, lean, 
and low with rounded chines, full-length keel, protected prop, and attached 
rudder.  They track hot, straight, and true in following seas.  Going to 
weather, they slice through the waves without much pounding, albeit with a 
good deal of thrown spray.  They are easily driven with a single engine to 
speeds of twenty knots or so.  For use as a yacht, their most significant 
drawback is that they cannot be heavily burdened with massive creature 
comforts without spoiling their seakindly behavior.  As a result, the 
accommodations tend to be on the spartan side when compared with other motor 
yachts of similar length or equivalent cost, certainly not the kind of boat 
that charms the ladies, say.  Even so, if I had the time and money to go 
through another interlude before settling on the ultimate yacht with live-
aboard accommodations, I'd love to try out a handsome, fast and able Down 
Easter for a spell.

Here, then, is the sum and substance of my interest in power boats.  Forget 
the so-called "motor yacht."  If I didn't care all that much about how a boat 
looked or behaved, I'd as soon have a houseboat (which I don't want).  A 
sportfisherman would no doubt be a thrill to bash about in, but I'm not into 
fishing and don't want to bear the cost associated with that indulgence.  A 
semi-displacement "trawler" is neither fish nor fowl, doesn't ordinarily 
exceed displacement speeds and even the best of them behave so badly in 
following seas as to give daunting meaning to the "small craft" warnings that 
were formerly cause for rejoicing when I was sailing.  Find me an able, full-
displacement hull with creature comforts (e.g. a Krogen 42) at reasonable cost 
and my business is yours.  A handsome "Down Easter" might be tempting, but the 
performance* would have to be impressive enough to make up for the limited 
accommodations, and I'd have to be convinced that the boat could be resold 
locally without unreasonable loss.

------------

* If it won't go twice as fast as a trawler (a solid 15 knot cruise on a 
single diesel) then the sacrifice of creature comforts and fuel economy 
together with the noisier operation and jerkier ride is not worthwhile.  Also, 
if it requires the complications of twin engines to cruise, it is not a Down 
Easter and has neither market nor operational advantage over a common 
sportfisherman.

9.2  Single Engine or Twin? - Some Comparisons

The following is part of an article I posted to rec.boats.cruising in June of 
1996 as part of a thread on Trawler FAQs.  A question had been asked regarding 
the relative advantages of single engines vs. twin -- in a trawler in 
particular.

"> My reading, personal experience, and discussions with other trawler owners 
have indicated the following regarding twin engines vs. single engines in 
these boats.  Twin engines have twice the purchase cost, twice the maintenance 
cost, higher fuel cost, and usually, though not always, somewhat higher speed.  
They also provide greater maneuverability in very tight quarters around docks 
without using spring lines -- a skill that's not hard to learn but is probably 
essential in brisk crosswind and/or cross-current situations with single-
engine trawlers, even those with bow thrusters.  Another vital skill in 
handling single-engine trawlers in tight spots is "backing and filling," a 
technique that will allow you to turn the boat 90 or 180 degrees within 
slightly more than her own length. There are other single-engine techniques as 
well, but this is a start. It's amazing what you can do with some practice!  
Still, twin engines should give you better control in these situations.

Twin engines may also provide an increase in reliability, though not as much 
as one might think.  This is because the most likely cause of engine stoppage 
(I am told by engine "experts") is blockage of primary fuel filters which is 
usually a single-thread failure point -- i.e., both engines usually use a 
single, common primary filter, so when one engine stops the other does also.  
The most common method of avoiding blockage (whether the boat has one or two 
engines) is to add a vacuum gauge after the primary filter to indicate the 
degree of blockage long before it becomes completely blocked so the primary 
filter can be changed before the engine(s) stop.  Even more elegant is to use 
a day tank into which the day's anticipated fuel is pumped through a separate 
filter so you are certain the fuel is clean even BEFORE it gets to the primary 
filter. Finally, dual, parallel primary filters on a manifold permit rapid 
switch over to a clean filter without stopping the engine(s), if the filter 
became blocked before it can be changed.  On the other hand, twin engines do 
provide redundancy for failures of fuel pumps, water pumps, cooling water 
leakage or blockage, lubrication oil leakage or blockage etc.

One of the most serious causes of engine and/or drive train damage and failure 
is accidental grounding or striking large semi-submerged objects with the 
screw.  Here, the single engine designs usually fare much better than the 
twins.  The reason is that the single screw is usually protected by the keel 
which is directly in line with the screw and projects below it.  In the case 
of the full-keel, full displacement trawlers (like the Nordhavns and Krogens), 
the screw is almost totally protected by the keel.  On the other hand, most of 
the twin engine boats, especially the semi-displacement designs, have 
relatively less protection of this kind. I have seen at least one boat with 
extended skegs/keels in front of both twin screws to minimize this kind of 
failure."

After reading an earlier version of this FAQ, Andy La Varre suggested I add 
that the possibility of a broken alternator belt would put a plus sign in the 
twin-engine column.  Certainly here's a case where you could keep her moving 
with the second engine, if you had it.  (The immediate problem isn't the loss 
of the alternator, of course, but the fact that this same belt often drives 
the fresh-water coolant pump, as well.)  He further suggested that if you have 
a single engine, be sure to keep the spare fan belt right by the engine 
(perhaps along with the wrenches for the alternator bolts and the bar for 
putting tension on the belt), rather than hiding these things in separate 
spares or tool boxes.  Great suggestion!

For more thoughts on the relative advantages of single and twin engines, see, 
"Single or Twin Engines -- Which Is Best?" by Bill Parlatore in the Fall 1996 
issue of Passagemaker.  Lots of input from a wide variety of engine experts.

For additional information on using spring lines for maneuvering in tight 
spaces -- whether with single engines or twin, see "Boat Handling Under Power 
- A Motorboat and Yacht Owners' Guide" by John Mellor.  

9.3  Backing A Single-Screw Trawler into a "Bare" Slip -- Springing a Pile.

(Originally demonstrated to me by the crew of Carinya, Grant and Astaar 
Breining.)

This technique will allow you to back into a narrow slip with no lines 
previously attached, with cross winds and/or current, and with a fairway 
barely wider than the length of your boat, using only one fearless line 
handler aboard your boat and without breaking a sweat.  Read on...  Keep in 
mind that this is a LOT easier to do than it is to describe -- especially 
using ascii "art"!!

Have your crew prepare a Spring Line which is as long as the slip plus 10 feet 
or so.  It needs to have a fixed loop or a slip-loop in the end that will be 
placed over the piling.  (It doesn't need to be a "heavy" line, even for a 20-
ton Krogen a 1/2" nylon line is fine.)  Flake this line down at the stern of 
the boat so it can run free without tangling.  We use a figure eight 
configuration.  For the Slip Configuration and Approach Direction below, place 
this flaked line on the deck at the starboard stern.  If you have hawse pipes 
by the stern cleats as the Krogen does, run the looped end through the hawse 
pipe.  (Since the Krogen 42 has a hawse pipe/cleat on the side at the quarter, 
this is the hawse pipe/cleat we use.)  Also prepare two bow lines (the longer 
the better, especially if the slip is longer than the boat) and two stern 
lines and flake them down by their respective hawses pipe/cleats.

Note the piling labeled "A".  It's the outer piling in the Target Slip 
farthest from you as you approach.  For this particular slip configuration, 
this is where the "real" action is going to take place.

Slip Configuration:

                      Narrow Fairway
Direction of 
  Approach ------> 

             o     o     o     o <- Outer Pilings
                         A




             o     o     o     o <- Inner Pilings
      l--------------------------------
      l             Dock
      l--------------------------------
                      ^
                    Target
                     Slip

Step 1.  Slowly bring her into the fairway close to the outer slip pilings.

          -----------\
        ~~x   Boat    >
          -----------/

             o     o     o     o <- Outer Pilings
                         A




             o     o     o     o <- Inner Pilings
      l--------------------------------
      l             Dock
      l--------------------------------
                      ^
                    Target
                     Slip

Step 2.  Now, as you near your Target Slip, bring her starboard stern as close 
as possible to Piling "A" and stop the boat.  You may need to kick her bow out 
just a bit to avoid other boats in their slips, but the key is getting your 
crew close enough to Piling "A" to reach it with the Spring Line loop.  There 
are several methods of using boat hooks to get some extra "reach."  Of course, 
the lasso method (the cowboy technique or underhanded "u-toss") is also a 
possibility...

                         -----------\
                         x   Boat    >
                         -----------/
             o     o     o     o <- Outer Pilings
                         A




             o     o     o     o <- Inner Pilings
      l--------------------------------
      l             Dock
      l--------------------------------
                      ^
                    Target
                     Slip

Step 3.  Have your crew place the loop of the Spring Line over Piling "A" and 
standby to tie it off at the starboard stern (or quarter) cleat.
Back up slowly 6 feet or so, stop, and have your crew tie the Spring Line off.  
(The optimum distance required will be determined by the width of the slip, 
but 6 feet is sufficient -- more is better if you have the room.)  Now back 
SLOWLY, and the boat will begin to rotate into alignment with the slip.  Don't 
fret about a few squeaks -- that's what the rub rail is for.  The entire 
process can take 30 seconds or more, depending on the strength and direction 
of the wind and current -- sometimes they will help, sometimes not.  Use your 
bowthruster to assist the turn if you like, but it's not necessary -- just 
speeds the process up a little.  Carefully watch the port stern side to make 
sure it clears the other Outer Piling as you make the turn.  If it doesn't 
clear, stop backing, go forward slightly, and have your crew shorten the 
Spring Line and re-tie it.  Then resume backing SLOWLY.

                        -----------\
                        x   Boat    >~
                        _----------/ ~
             o     o     o     o <- Outer Pilings
                         A




             o     o     o     o <- Inner Pilings
      l--------------------------------
      l             Dock
      l--------------------------------
                      ^
                    Target
                     Slip

Here's what you'll look like part way through the turn.  You'll only need to 
miss the piling with the port quarter by inches.  Since you're moving so 
slowly, there's no need for panic at any point (unless you've left the 
barbeque attached to - and hanging outboard from - the port cockpit stanchion 
-- 'nuff said!).

                         _
                       /   \~~
                      /    /~~
                     /    /~~
                    /    /
             o     o  x /o     o <- Outer Pilings
                         A




             o     o     o     o <- Inner Pilings
      l--------------------------------
      l             Dock
      l--------------------------------
                      ^
                    Target
                     Slip

Step 4.  When the boat is perfectly aligned with the slip, have your crew 
release the Spring Line and let it run free.  You now begin backing into the 
slip (using the backing technique described in the following section or 
whatever you feel comfortable with to control the direction of the boat).

                      :
                     / \
                    |   |
                    |   |
             o     o|   |o     o <- Pilings
                    |   |!<- Spring Line
                      x



             o     o     o     o <- Inner Pilings
      l--------------------------------
      l             Dock
      l--------------------------------
                     ^
                   Target
                    Slip

Step 5.  While you are backing, this would be a good time for your crew to 
place the loops of the bow lines onto the 2 Outer Pilings -- this is 
especially important if the slip is longer than your boat -- you may not be 
able to reach them easily later.  Don't tie them off quite yet,though.  When 
you are all the way into the slip, stop, and have your crew tie off the Spring 
Line to prevent the boat from hitting the dock.  It should now be obvious why 
the Spring Line needed to be so long!  (If the wind is blowing (or the current 
running) from your stern, you may need to keep "bumping" reverse to keep the 
Spring Line tight so you won't be pushed away from the dock while the stern 
lines are rigged.  Your crew should then rig a stern line to the windward (or 
up current) Inner Piling and then you or your crew should tie off bow line 
attached to the windward (or up current) Outer Piling.  You are now secure 
temporarily.  Congratulations!  You've done it!  The remaining dock lines 
lines can be rigged at your "leisure."

             o     o     o    o <- Outer Pilings
                     / \ !
                    |   |!
                    |   |!<- Spring Line
                    |   |!
                    |   |!
             o     o  x  o    o <- Inner Pilings
      l--------------------------------
      l  Dock with cheering admirers
      l--------------------------------
                     ^
                   Target
                    Slip

Step 6.  Bow to the awestruck observers and cheering admirers on the dock!  Go 
get a cold one -- you both deserve it -- remember your crew did ALL the hard 
part!

9.4  Backing Her In -- with Dignity and Grace

The following is part of an email message I sent to a fellow powerboater in 
early '95.  We were trading ideas on how to back a single-engine craft into a 
slip.  This technique for coming straight back picks up at the point where you 
already have her lined up with the slip and her stern just ready to enter.

"You'll get the hang of it.  Here's MY secret.  (discovered quite by accident) 
Clearly you have to plan ahead or do what's called "springing a pile" to get 
her more or less positioned correctly and lined up with the slip.  That done, 
I turn the helm ALL THE WAY in the direction she wants to back due to prop 
torque.  I do this rather than try to fight the torque effect for two reasons.  
(1) There's no way to counteract that effect with the rudder at low speeds no 
matter what you do because the rudder is almost completely ineffective at low 
speeds in reverse.  (2) BECAUSE it's so ineffective, turning in the direction 
the boat naturally wants to back doesn't make it turn that way any faster.  
However, it gives you a terrific ability to "steer" with brief bursts of 
forward as described below.

Now, here's what you do.  Give her a gentle amount of reverse to get her 
started moving backward.  Then go back to neutral once she starts moving.  
(Remember, the prop torque effect only occurs when the prop is turning, so 
she'll go straight back by herself when she's in neutral.)  She'll turn off 
course a bit, and you correct this with a QUICK burst of forward.  Don't be 
timid about the burst.  Because of the prop wash on the rudder, this has the 
effect of "hopping" the stern back into position without causing any forward 
motion.  (If you have a little extra room, you can overcorrect some here to 
anticipate the effect of the prop torque during the next operation in 
reverse.)

Now you're ready to apply some more reverse.  Repeat the process until she's 
all the way in.  She goes back in a series of small arcs, but the result is a 
VERY professionally executed maneuver.  Throughout this, I depend on the outer 
pilings to keep the bow from falling off downwind in the event of a fresh 
crosswind (which inevitably pops up out of nowhere just as the dock becomes 
lined with well-wishers and hecklers while you try to look "cool")."

9.5 Maneuvering the Single-Screw Trawler: The Art of "Goosing" to Make 360
    Turns

Back in November, 1997 a lively thread popped up on the Internet 
Trawler-World mailing list, TWL, on Single vs. Twin engines.  This 
perennial subject quickly evolved into a discussion of how to maneuver a 
single engine boat -- an art that must be learned by a Krogen captain to 
be able to look "cool" and avoid serious damage to one's boat and pride 
(not to mention others' boats).  I tried to describe in text form some 
tips on how to do this, and judging from the responses from others on 
the list, it seemed helpful.  Although this sort of stuff is "old-hat" 
to the long-time, single-screw skippers, I thought some of the new folks 
in our club might find it useful  It all started with the following two 
quotes.  (In Internet email quotes from some else's messages are usually 
denoted my the ">" marks at the left margin.)

>"October would occasionally simply decide she wouldn't turn to port. We 
>got tired of doing 270 turns."

and

>Exactly. My present single engine boat has a keel and a lovely great 
>rudder but with any wind blowing ( a Mistral can go on for a week) you 
>can forget about backing her anywhere but left about. The 270 degree 
>turn is often the only option I've had in a medium wind - and it's 
>great luck if I've got room for one in a Mediterranean harbour - or on 
>our narrow canals. 

At the risk of stating what may be obvious to some of the folks on this 
list, I'm going to toss my $0.02 into this part of the thread... 

First of all, I've had this identical discussion with some of the 
single-screw owners in our marina and the ones who've been bold enough 
to try these techniques have told me the experience has been very 
helpful. 

The first "secret" to tight-quarter maneuvering the single-screw boat is 
to learn how to "back and fill" to "rotate" the boat, not "drive" her 
around. Using this technique, you can do 360-degree turns in EITHER 
direction in less than two lengths of your boat -- and, if you get good 
at it, it'll be 1.5 lengths or so. This technique consists of stopping 
completely and putting the helm all the way over and leaving it there 
throughout the turn. Then shift into forward and give the engine a quick 
"goose." You really have to hit it hard, so the first time you practice 
this, try it out in the harbor where you're close enough to objects to 
see the effect of what you're doing, but not so close you're likely to 
get into trouble. As soon as you've "goosed her" forward, throttle back, 
then immediately shift into reverse and "goose her" again -- hard enough 
to kill all forward motion. You will see that the forward goose has 
rotated the boat perhaps 30 or 40 degrees and the reverse goose has 
killed her way again so she's barely moved forward. Repeat the process 
over and over until you've rotated the boat the desired amount.

Of course, because of stern walk in reverse, you'll find this works 
better in one direction than the other. For example, our boat backs to 
starboard, so rotating the boat to port is MUCH easier because BOTH 
parts of the maneuver (forward AND reverse) assist the turn, whereas 
when you turn her to starboard the reverse goose tends to slow the turn. 
However, it CAN be done in both directions -- even in a breeze. Start by 
practicing the "easy" way and THEN work on being able to do it the 
"hard" way. Leave the helm alone during the maneuver -- it's only 
effective in forward anyway. 

The second "secret" to this is that you can NOT be gentle with the power 
when you "goose." Think of it as handling a mule, not a lover. It will 
makes LOTS of noise, and if you're in shallow water (say, less than 5 to 
8 feet under the keel, you'll kick up a LOT of mud to boot. If you're 
lucky enough to live in an area where there are watermen (who most all 
use single-screw boats -- think about it!), watch THEM turning and 
backing in small spaces. In our area, you can hear their engines a mile 
away doing this. Observe the action of the stern during the forward 
goose -- it seems to almost "hop" over several feet in the direction you 
want it to go. As you watch what's going on during the turn, you'll note 
that you're effectively moving the stern around the bow -- or at least a 
point maybe 25% back from the bow. This is quite different from what the 
twin-screw folks can do by pivoting around the stern -- or at least a 
point maybe 25% forward of the stern. Nonetheless, it works pretty well. 

Here's the rub. While you're doing all this, the wind and/or current is 
causing you to drift. Start by practicing this on a calm day. THEN, when 
you can do it quickly and smartly, try it in the wind. The quicker you 
turn, the less distance you'll drift. When trying it in a narrow slipway 
or around docks, you'll just need to allow for the drift by starting 
your maneuver a suitable distance up wind or current. 

You'll also find that this works a lot easier with a semi-displacement 
boat (with very little keel aft) and with fin-keel sailboats (that's 
where I learned this), but it will work with the full-keel trawler (or 
sailboat) -- it just takes more of a "goose" (and MORE gooses (geese?) 
to make the turn. 

After you've gotten pretty good at this, take her into a slipway where 
the boats don't hang out the ends of the slips and practice making the 
turns in tight quarters. If you have a flybridge, that's the best place 
to do this from so you can watch both ends of the boat. If you only have 
a lower station, you'll want to put a spotter on the stern to watch your 
distance from the pilings. Do this the first time on a calm day. Soon 
you'll be doing it confidently in a bit of a breeze. 

OK, so far, we have only talked about rotating the boat, but there's yet 
another maneuvering requirement that's just as tough for the single-
screw boat -- that's backing in a straight line. It's really not all 
that hard IF you remember secret #2. Always use quick, hard bursts of 
power when you "goose." This will let you complete the maneuver in 
shortest order, minimizing the drift due to wind and/or current. 

OK, let's say we want to back our boat (that backs to starboard due to 
propwalk) slowly into a narrow slipway. Start by lining up with your 
stern headed in toward the slipway and put your helm all the way over to 
starboard (and leave it there). (WHY put the helm to starboard? Because 
when you're backing slowly the helm has very little effect anyway -- 
especially with a full-keel boat, so putting it to port won't do much to 
counteract the natural tendency of the stern to move to starboard 
anyway, and we're going to need the helm to starboard for the "gooses" 
-- you knew that had to be coming, right?) Now, put her in reverse and 
give her enough throttle to get her moving in reverse. As soon as she's 
moving backward (and starting to turn to starboard), shift into neutral 
and coast. This will stop the propwalk and let you coast almost straight 
back. As you start to slow, shift back into forward and give her a quick 
goose. Because of the starboard helm, this will "hop" the stern to port 
without moving forward (completely offsetting the propwalk -- plus maybe 
a little more), and then you can then repeat the process. Now, this may 
sound a little complicated (you'll be following a slightly "scalloped" 
path), but you can back as slowly as the wind/current conditions will 
allow without terrorizing yourself or the other owners in the yard. 

Now, wouldn't it be easier to get a bowthruster and let the bowthruster 
do all the work? Sadly, no, at least not with a 20-ton, full-keel boat 
and most electric bow thrusters (although hydraulic thrusters of, say 25 
hp or so, can be very effective). Even in calm conditions, you can only 
move the BOW with the bow thruster, so offsetting the propwalk is easier 
with the gooses, since THEY move the stern back into place. We have a 
bow thruster, but I seldom use it -- relying instead on the techniques 
I've been talking about here -- they're MUCH more reliable. The bow 
thruster is a 5-hp, 12-volt model that draws nearly 400 amps from a 
dedicated 8D battery located about 2 feet away. As I recall, it puts out 
around 150 lbs of thrust, maybe a tad more. However, it doesn't take 
much in the way of marine growth to reduce that thrust significantly. On 
the other hand, the 100+ hp main engine can always be counted on to be 
sufficient. On the other hand, I only count the bowthruster for a little 
"finesse" in calm conditions -- in conjunction with these other 
techniques. By itself it won't prevent a disaster in a fresh breeze. 

Finally, practice these maneuvers over and over until you feel 
comfortable with them. Pick a calm day (during the week when nobody's 
around) and practice backing into every slipway in the marina. Then, 
when you think you're ready, come in bow first and practice backing out 
and then doing 180s to get out. THEN, pick out a few empty slips well 
into the slipway and practice the 90-degree turn to line up with the 
slip and back in! (Believe it or not -- I find it easier to back into a 
slip now than trying to come in pointy end first.) If you have sturdy 
rub rails (let's hope you do), get used to letting them touch the 
pilings, gently of course -- otherwise you'll need a helper to fend off 
occasionally. The key is practice and MORE practice (along with quick, 
hard geese) so you know exactly how YOUR boat handles.

For some discussion on backing a single-screw boat into a slip with 
spring lines (which is even slicker), check out my Website: 

http://www.his.com/~vann/KrgStuff/Krognidx.htm 

PS. PLEASE don't let your boat know I likened her to a mule! 

Later another TWL subscriber made the following comment, in part:

>I have a marvelous collection of very fuzzy texts in English, French 
>and German too, where the GOOSING principle is decidedly not stressed. 

To which I replied:

This comment (and several other similar ones) prompted me to check in 
the various texts on boat handling I have lying about. Know what? You're 
right! Only ONE even came close to describing the "backing-and-filling" 
technique. The one that does describe it is "Boat Handling Under Power," 
John Mellor, Sheridan House, Inc., 1993. Unfortunately, John doesn't use 
this term to describe it however. On p. 37, he describes "Turning at Low 
Speed," where he states, "It is essential to appreciate that a boat with 
a rudder can best be turned at low speeds by driving a powerful flow of 
water from the propeller across the rudder; the slow water flow past the 
boat will produce very sluggish steering. A tight turn can thus be made 
by using a succession of short, sharp bursts of power, maximizing the 
turning effect of the slipstream while minimizing forward movement." 
(For some reason he doesn't mention using reverse to aid in minimizing 
forward movement.) However, in the succeeding section, "Turning Short," 
John goes on to state, "A single-screw boat with a rudder can, 
surprisingly perhaps, be turned more tightly than twin screws, being 
capable of a three-point turn quite literally on the spot... The secret 
is to make the initial turn against the propeller effects, giving a 
brief hard kick ahead to swing her with the slipstream over a fully 
angled rudder. As soon as the stern begins to swing, put her full astern 
and allow the increased prop effects in astern gear to continue pulling 
her stern around; there is no need to alter the position of the rudder 
as it will only have effect when the prop is going ahead. Then go ahead 
again as before, and repeat the whole cycle as often as necessary. As 
long as you never allow the boat to actually gather way ahead or astern, 
simply using prop effects or slipstream to swing the stern sideways each 
time, she will turn on the spot quickly and powerfully. The more nearly 
stopped the boat is to begin with, the tighter the turn." Now if he'd 
only called it "goosing!" (;^) 

BTW, I recommend John's book (I have the paperback edition) VERY highly. 
He describes a LOT of techniques that will be useful for handling 
trawlers -- like how to move the boat directly sideways (without turning 
at all) using the bowthruster, docking alongside, maneuvering in wind 
and current, how to use spring lines and warps (very important, IMHO, 
when clearance for a turn is only inches, rather than feet -- and a LOT 
easier to do than it sounds, even short-handed -- especially if you have 
a sturdy rub rail), narrow-waters handling (including how to "read" your 
boat's message to you that she's getting too close to shallow water for 
comfort), an so on. He also describes the Mediterranean moor (including 
how to do it in a strong crosswind). Only "biggies" missing seem to be 
the Bahamian moor (more of an anchoring technique than a maneuvering 
technique, I suppose) and how to cross a bar with a strong following sea 
that's moving faster than you are (often the case with trawlers). Since 
the helm responds BACKWARDS under these conditions, I think it deserved 
some discussion. 

Another topic which could have used some discussion is what I call 
"weather cocking," the tendency of a boat that's dead stopped to turn 
it's bow away (usually) from the wind. It's VERY useful to understand 
exactly how your boat behaves when dead stopped in a wind, because this 
turning effect can be too powerful to counteract without heroic 
measures. Better to understand what she's going to do and then plan 
wherever possible to take advantage of it. This is particularly 
necessary with backing-and-filling in tight quarters where you don't 
need to be battling any adverse forces. (Of course, you'll always have 
to consider the downwind drift due to the wind -- both in planning where 
to start your turns and in completing the process smartly to reduce the 
time you're exposed to the wind effect.) 

Next time you're out in a good breeze, stop dead in the water with your 
bow either just off the wind or a right angles to it. Now, watch what 
happens. Of course, the boat will start to drift downwind. That's 
expected. However, note that it may TURN also. How she turns and how 
fast she turns may be VERY useful to account for in tight quarters. For 
example, a sailboat under power (sails furled) will almost always 
"weathercock" with her stern toward the wind. With a fin-keel sailboat, 
this will happen VERY quickly, regardless of her angle to the wind when 
you stopped. (The reason is that the wind pressure on the mast and 
above-water portion of the hull acts forward of the spot where the water 
acts on the underwater portion of the hull, including the keel.) With a 
trawler, this effect may not be as dramatic and could, I suppose, be 
exactly the opposite, depending on the design of the hull and deckhouse 
location. Our Krogen 42, for example, hardly turns at all. (Frankly, I 
preferred the rapid turning of our old fin-keel sailboat!) Why? Well, 
when I planned my tight-quarters turn with the sailboat, I would 
intentionally stop with the bow at least 20 degrees or so off the wind 
IN THE DIRECTION I WANTED TO TURN ANYWAY. Thus, this turning effect 
aided the backing and filling rather than opposed it. Now, I have to do 
ALL the turning work myself. I strongly suggest you find out how your 
own boat behaves in the wind when stopped -- do it out in the harbor 
where you won't have to worry about hitting anything as you drift along, 
and then use her tendencies to your advantage when you can. 

PS. John also mentions in his book the importance of pausing in neutral 
long enough for the gears to stop turning when shifting from forward to 
reverse and back. It should go without saying that the engine should be 
at idle speed before shifting into either forward or reverse. At the 
very least, high-speed shifts can cause the damper plate to disassemble 
itself or, even worse, cause the transmission itself to do so. (:^(

To which another TWL subscriber, added:

>The video "Single Engine Boat Handling" by Bennett Marine does show and 
>explain the back and fill turn somewhat. The interactive docking 
>simulator in the "Hands-on Powerboating" >CD of Chapman's is also great 
>fun.

Yes, the video does, indeed, AND it features the Krogen Manatee 36 in 
all the demos!

9.6 Parallel Docking a Single-Screw Trawler with a Spring Line...

In early 1998 I received an email message from Anne Morris, M/V 
Tenacity, GB 32 on the York River, VA, as follows (in part):

>May I ask you to post one thing to the list? You mentioned (a while 
>back) a special trick your wife has for handling spring lines on the 
>approach to a dock, and said you thought you'd already covered this 
>elsewhere. Either I missed it, or you were thinking of the 2-handed 
>throw that you detailed for making good distance on a toss, as for 
>setting up your bubbler lines. At any rate, I'd appreciate it if you'd 
>post or re-post it if & when you get a chance, as would others on the 
>(Trawler-World) list, I'm sure.

Lessee --

I checked my messages and couldn't find it either (I'm sure I wrote 
about it somewhere -- maybe on rec.boats.*) Anyway, I'll try to keep it 
short (ha!). If this is old hat, just hit the delete button... BTW, this 
sounds like basically the same technique that Jerry & Pam Munson, M/V 
PassageMaker, use.

The "secret" is that the after spring (leading from the mid-ship cleat 
to a piling near the stern) is the first line on -- always. Of course, 
it really doesn't make much difference if there's no wind or the wind is 
coming from any direction except OFF THE DOCK, when it's CRITICAL. Once 
that spring line is on, going forward slowly (with the helm hard away 
from the dock) will virutally pin the boat to the dock -- totally 
immobilizing the boat as long as you're idling forward and giving you 
all the time in the world to put other lines on. Since we back to 
starboard, I try to dock starboard side to if at all possible. That's 
because my wife stands on the quarter to put the spring line on a piling 
-- and I need to be able to get her close enough to reach the piling. 
Since we BACK to starboard, I use reverse to bump the stern over to the 
dock (the helm stays hard to port throughout, so going forward with a 
quick "goose" also moves the stern toward the dock. All the while I 
pretty much ignore the fact that the bow is falling off, because once 
the spring line is secured, it's easy to bring it back. (Of course, if 
you have 3 or 4 hands on your arms you can use your bow thruster some, 
but most of the time it's neither required or effective. But I'm getting 
ahead of myself... 

Here's the setup. Assume the dock is ahead of you and to starboard and a 
brisk wind and/or light current are coming directly off the dock. Also, 
assume that it's just you and your first mate (FM) on the boat, and 
there is no one on the dock to help. The problem of course, is that if 
you just make an approach at the usual angle of 20 or 30 or 40 degrees 
and then smartly cut the helm to port and use reverse to stop perfectly 
-- parallel to the dock and just 3 fingers away -- your first mate has 
about a millisecond (if you're lucky) to tie on just one line before 
you're drifting merrily away into the creek. If your FM misses, you have 
to be ready to pull her/him closer for another try. Since we have LOTS 
of power at the stern (and only 5 hp on the bowthruster) and it can be 
vectored with the rudder, I place my FM on the starboard quarter, at or 
near the stern, and consider it MY job to get her close and keep her 
there until the spring line is secured. When I go into reverse (and 
"goose"), the stern moves closer, and when I go into forward (and 
"goose"), the stern also moves toward the dock. If I "goose" quickly, I 
can get the sideways motion of the stern before moving the boat forward 
or back much at all. Successive forward and reverse "gooses" can keep 
the stern moving toward the dock without getting into the 7-figure mega-
yachts ALWAYS parked only a few feet ahead and astern. With some 
practice to build your skills and confidence, you can park UNDER their 
bowsprits this way. Ah, but I've gotten ahead of myself yet again...

Back to the approach. This spring line is prepared well in advance. 
(Also, the bow and stern lines are ready to go ashore as well.) We use a 
line longer than the length of the boat (I'll talk about why later) with 
an eye spliced into one end. It's lighter (like 1/2") than our usual 
dock lines to make it easier to handle during the docking process -- 
it's usually replaced later with one that's appropriate for the 
conditions and length of stay. The end without the splice is secured to 
the mid-ship cleat and then it is led aft to the stern outside all 
obstructions -- fascia plates, shrouds, whatever. Then the standing part 
is "tucked" through the eye to make a noose. This is going to go over 
the piling -- MUCH faster than tying the clove hitch and/or half hitches 
IMHO -- it's also easier to execute if someone shows up pn the dock at 
the last minute to "help." Just tell them exactly which piling to loop 
it over rather than trying to explain how to tie something from Ashley's 
Book of Knots while your boat "sails" out into the harbor. OK, so now 
the noose is over the piling, but there's still some slack in the line. 
Your FM then moves to the cleat (I'll describe an alternative later), 
takes in all the slack, and secures the line to the cleat. At this 
point, you go ahead very slowly with the helm hard to port and the boat 
will parallel park itself against the dock. It's important not to go 
ahead hard because most mid-ship cleats are going to be too far forward 
and the bow will tend to come in faster than the stern. That's why you 
hold the helm hard to port -- to help kick the stern in. If the bow 
comes in too fast, a quick "goose" in reverse will pull the stern in 
faster -- you want to keep her parallel to the dock, more or less, as 
you come in. Then resume going forward on the tightened spring line. (If 
you're too far forward, a tad of reverse will let the line go slack so 
the FM can take some of it in.) OK, so now you're pinned against the 
dock. Your FM can now step lightly ashore, carrying the stern line. Once 
it's secure, you can toss the bow line ashore for her to secure -- then 
the forward spring line, etc. Hmmm.... I got ahead of myself once again.

Let's go back to the point where you've gotten the stern a few feet away 
from the piling you want your FM to put the noose on -- but it's still 
too far away (or too high) to reach without leaning (a BIG no-no). 
Here's where our "Magic Stick" comes in. This is going to be tough, but 
I'm going to attempt to describe it in text. The function of this stick 
is to let her hold the noose out or up 6 to 8 feet and drop it over the 
piling. There are several designs in the stores, so check the catalogs. 
Ours is made from a long boat hook. Imagine there are two large clothes 
pins attached to the boat hook. One is at the far end and the other is 
about two feet from that end. The "noose" is clipped in to the clothes 
pins and the standing part is led back to the end of the boat hook you 
are holding. The noose is open and "loose" -- probably draping down 
about 3 feet or so -- big enough so you have a BIG hole (2 feet wide and 
maybe 2 to 3 feet long) to loop over that piling on the dock. Now we 
don't actually use clothes pins, since they wouldn't be large enough to 
hold the line, but you can devise something that has the same function 
that's bigger (I don't think I could manage an explanation of what we 
use). The key, of course, is that the two clips should hold the line 
tight enough so the noose won't drop off, but not so tight that the 
noose won't pull away when it's dropped over the piling and the stick is 
pulled away and back onto the boat. 

If all this sounds too involved (like a lot things, it's a lot easier to 
do than describe), you can practice Jerry Munson's technique, which is 
to put Pam on the swim platform and move the stern close enough to the 
dock that she can get off onto the dock and attach the spring line from 
there. Choose your poison...

OK, one last thing. The Krogen 42 has a side deck on the starboard side 
(on BOTH sides if she's not a widebody model). The midship cleat is 
built in to a hawse pipe. we usually run the spring line through the 
hawse pipe and BACK to the starboard quarter cleat (just forward of the 
stern -- that's what the extra length is for). The FM can then take the 
slack out of the spring line after the noose is on the piling without 
having to move forward to the mid-ship cleat. If I'm running the boat 
from the flybridge, I can see her working the lines, and we can talk 
without "yelling." Of course, we NEVER yell (;^). Riiiight! At least we 
TRY never to do that -- "secret-agent" radios help a lot with this -- 
with those we can yell QUIETLY!

I hope all this makes some sense... I hope it's what Anne asked for... I 
also hope you're still awake. (3<)

PS. If the wind is REALLY strong and/or the current is strong (and BOTH 
off the dock), the approach is going to have to be modified some (the 
approach is going to have to be more aggressive) -- by either backing 
straight toward the dock near that elusive piling OR, probably better, 
by taking the spring line FORWARD to the bow and bringing the bow 
straight in to the piling. Once the Magic Stick puts the noose on, the 
throttle is eased and the bow is allowed to fall away while the slack in 
the spring line is taken in. Once the bow falls off and the boat is 
roughly parallel to the dock as before, going forward slowly will haul 
her in tight. Clearly under extreme conditions, there is going to be a 
LOT of tension on this line. It is critical that there be clear 
communication between the helmsperson and the FM. You will have to work 
closely together to make sure the line is secure and hands are clear 
before power is applied. 

9.7 Choosing a Slip: On Port or Starboard?  And Going In Pointy End 
First...

Late in 1997 I received an email from Ted Grave as follows:

>Just picked up ( last week ) a 32' Grand Banks. Previous biggest boat 
>was 24' I/O.  Only had time for two marina approaches. No dents, 
>deaths, or injuries, but certainly not elegant!
>
>I believe I have a choice in slips next year, and would welcome your 
>input. I have a LEFT rotating prop, so she will pull to starboard in 
>reverse. It seems to me that, for a beginner, I will be better off 
>having my slip to my right as I pull into the marina. That way I can 
>pull up slightly past my slip, and the starboard prop walk will help 
>spin me around as I back into the slip.
>
>Your thoughts and recommendation would be greatly appreciated. 
>P.S. I don't have a bow thruster.

I agree.  We also back to starboard so I prefer a slip to starboard if 
we're backing in -- for two reasons -- the starboard propwalk turns you 
in naturally as you back, AND the starboard propwalk makes it easy to 
"snuggle" up to the far piling to slip a springline on to make the turn 
even easier -- especially if the slipway is narrow and theres a stiff 
breeze or current (see my Website for more on this). If you want to try 
it without a springline, come in close to the slips on the starboard and 
then make a turn to port (it will take some practice to figure out when 
to start making this turn). Do the "backing and filling" as necessary to 
complete most of the 90-degree turn, leaving enough undone so that the 
final backing toward the slip will straighten you out the rest of the 
way. The trick is to get the BOW lined up with the slip (you can always 
move the stern around with prop thrust). If all fails and the bow ends 
up too far off to the side, practice "backing and filling" to complete a 
180 and go out and try again. 

BTW, the "free turn" will take a lot of practice, whereas the springline 
technique will work perfectly the first time and every time. The first 
time we did it (and it was with the K42), our slipmates all came rushing 
out to fend off and pass lines and so on. We did it with such grace that 
they all felt rather foolish, I'm afraid. Later, one commented that it 
looked like we'd been doing that all our lives. I tried to be gentle 
when I said it was our first attempt. From then on they never even 
looked up. 

BTW, I say all this not to claim we're all that good, it's just that 
spring lines make just about EVERY docking situation look easy. Whenever 
we approach a dock (especially with a brisk wind or current coming from 
the dock) the after spring line is the FIRST line to go on (my first 
mate uses a clip arrangement on a long boathook to put it on without 
having to get onto the dock). After it's on, I idle forward with the 
helm turned hard away from the dock (to hold the stern in tight), and 
when we're snuggled up against the dock, I get off and handle the dock 
end of the other lines while my wife handles the boat end (or vice 
versa). Oh yes, always try to approach a dock starboard side to -- 
that's because reversing will pull the stern closer to the dock. 

On the other hand, if you're planning to come in to your slip "pointy 
end first," I'd rather have the slip on the port side, again, especially 
if the slipway is narrow. That's the configuration I currently have. The 
slipway is so narrow that on approaching the slip I can only turn about 
45 degrees to port before I run out of room and have to stop. When I put 
her in reverse (with a goose) to stop, the propwalk continues the turn 
to about 70 degrees or so. When I go back into forward (with a goose), I 
get the rest of the way around to 90 degrees and then straighten the 
helm to go straight in (which is the REALLY tense part, since we only 
have about 8" on either side in the slip and the boat is too wide to see 
the separation -- my first mate stands on the side and "calls" the 
distance in inches to help my know where I am). Now the REAL trick is to 
stop in the slip without bumping on the starboard quarter because of the 
propwalk -- here I try to reverse gently and if I get too close anyway 
(the wind always seems to push us that way to boot), I turn hard to 
starboard and give her a tiny goose to get the stern away from the 
pilings on the starboard side. The trick again is to move the stern 
without moving forward -- tough with only inches to spare. This is where 
your rub rail is MOST useful! (;^) 

9.8 Lassoing a Piling -- A LONG Way Away!

I went down to the boat a couple of days ago to set up some lines to 
make installing the ice eaters a little easier later in the winter. 
Naturally, one of the pilings is too d*#n far to reach without untying 
the whole boat and moving her back (WAAAY too much work except as a last 
resort). OK, so let's try to lasso the piling -- out maybe 15 feet away 
and 10 feet tall. 

Of course, the cowboy-style approach is a possibility, but not only is 
that something I've never taken the time to practice, but I'd end up 
with a slipknot wrapped tight around the piling, when what I REALLY 
wanted was a doubled line that would allow me to adjust the depth of the 
ice eater from the boat.

Remembering a article from a few years back from Coastal Cruising (boy, 
I really miss that magazine -- sure hope those folks can get that going 
again...), I gave the two-handed, underhanded-toss a shot, and it worked 
the first time. Whew!

I thought there might be a few folks here who might find it useful, so 
I'll take a shot at explaining it. The reference is "Solutions," Don and 
Gael Steffens, Coastal Cruising, April/May 1994, p. 52. They learned the 
trick from Frank and Marjory Moyer aboard Halcyon, their 25-foot Fisher 
motor ketch. The coolest thing about this is that your 1st mate (or even 
guests) can learn to do it easily. Heck, "he'll" probably end up being 
better than you are...

Here's the deal, slightly modified from the description in the mag. OK, 
you need a line that's a good weight for throwing. I use 1/2" twisted 
nylon. My 3/4" docklines are too heavy, and lighter ones are hard to 
toss in the wind (but you find the size that's "right" for you). The 
line needs to be a LOT longer than the distance to the piling and back. 
The one I used in the example above was 40 feet long, and it wasn't ANY 
too long. Hold one end in your hand and use the other hand to coil the 
line, putting a 1/2 twist in every coil so it's nice and round and open 
and even. When it's all coiled up, split the coil equally between your 
two hands, AND (here's the hard part to describe) grasp the end of the 
line between your thumb and forefinger and hold the 1/2 coil in your 
other fingers (same hand). If you're still with me, do the same thing 
with your other hand for the other end and 1/2 coil. Now with your other 
hand... (no, I'm just kidding...)

OK, the rest is easy. Stand, facing the piling and stare at the top. 
From the article, "Both hands now hold coiled line with the two ends 
held tightly. Staring intently at the piling, throw up your hands as you 
would toss a basketball underhand and flip the line (both hands at once) 
over and beyond the piling." Continuing, "The trick in tossing the line 
is to aim farther than the piling itself. This ensures sufficient line 
to reach the target." I would add that it helps to toss the coils 
several feet to the sides of the piling (one on the left, one on the 
right, obviously), as well as, high OVER the piling top. This makes your 
aim far less critical. I've passed this tip along to a number of folks. 
I've NEVER seen anyone miss on the first try.

If your tossing line isn't strong enough to use directly as a dock line, 
tie your dock line onto one end and pull it around. This will free your 
tossing line for another piling, if needed. 

10  Ritual Cocktail

Equal parts cranberry juice, orange juice, and Myers Rum (with a dash of 
ground cinnamon on top?) -- to be imbibed precisely at sundown (+ or - an hour 
or two).

11  The Owners Clubs

11.1  Krogen Cruisers

An informal group formed in 1990, this is largely an East Coast club, 
although it has members from Michigan to Texas, Canada to Florida (25% of 
the members), and the Chesapeake Bay (33% of the members) to California and 
Oregon, plus Canada, Singapore, Hong Kong, and Dubai.  As of November 1997, 
it had well over 100 member boats and over 185 memberships altogether.  It 
publishes a 25 to 50 page newsletter quarterly (back issues are available 
and all contain highly useful information on operating, maintaining, 
upgrading, and generally enjoying Krogens) and sponsors several get-
togethers, both afloat and ashore, throughout the year.  

Its motto is "A group of serious cruisers who don't take themselves too 
seriously."  No president or commodore and NO by-laws!  Although for many 
years it was open only to current and previous owners of Krogen boats, 
increasing interest by Krogen "wannabes" has persuaded the owners to open 
membership to them, as well.   For membership information, contact Manny 
Munoz, treasurer, 67 Sandie Pointe Lane, Portsmouth, VA 23701, or email: 
Wavybiz@aol.com.

11.2  Krogen Cruising Club

For membership information, contact Chuck Glynn (also a member of Krogen 
Cruisers), 75 Orchard Road, Orinda, CA 94563.

11.3  Northwest Kadey Krogen Owners

For membership information, contact Sam and Marvol Barnard, SMBARNARD@AOL.COM 
or MARVOL@JUNO.COM or Glen Theobald, P.O. Box 58891, Tukwila, WA 98138.

11.4  The North Coast Krogen Gang

For membership information, contact George Rowcliffe (also a member of Krogen 
Cruisers), P.O. Box 21610, Columbus, OH 43221

11.5  The Alaskan Krogen Owners Group

For more information contact Sam and Marvol Barnard, Marvol@juno.com, or 
P.O. Box 7082, Ketchikan, AK 99901.

12  References

12.1  Books

Voyaging Under Power, 3rd ed., Robert Bebee & Jim Leishman, 1994, 
International Marine, excellent discussion of full-displacement trawler yachts 
in general - focus on Nordhavn 46 (produced by Leishman's company, Pacific 
Asian Enterprises), several pages of description, discussion, and comments on 
the Krogen 42 trawler and several others of the type.  Discusses the 
significance of D/L, prismatic coefficient (PC), etc. - how to calculate and 
how to use these parameters in evaluating performance.  Excellent discussion 
on passagemaking and cruising on powerboats.  Also discusses the design and 
use of flopperstoppers underway to minimize rolling.

Buyer's Guide to Motor Yachts & Trawlers, Ed McNew and Mark Parker, 1995 
Edition.  Pages on Krogen Manatee, 42' Trawler, and 48' Whaleback.  Includes 
descriptions and prices of used boats.  This book also includes similar 
information on the various makes of semi-displacement trawler-type boats.

Boat Handling Under Power - A Motorboat and Yacht Owners' Guide, John Mellor, 
Paperback Edition 1993, Sheridan House.  This boat provides an excellent 
discussion of the handling of all types of powerboats - including the special 
issues of maneuvering and handling a full-keel, full-displacement, single-
engine boat such as the Krogen trawlers.

Boat Docking - Close Quarters Maneuvering for Small Craft, Charles T. Low -- 
lots of diagrams and great tips for docking both single- and twin-screw craft.  Contact:
Harvey Island Enterprises
1275 Kensington Parkway, Suite 168, Brockville, Ontario Canada K6V 7E6
fax: 613.342.0232
ctlow@boatdocking.com
http://www.boatdocking.com/

12.2  Magazine Articles

"Salty & Seakindly," Jack Smith, Yachting, December 1982, pp. 67-69.  
Discusses various trawlers, including Krogens.

"Design Portfolio: Krogen 42 Trawler Yacht," Power & Motoryacht, Feb. 1986.  
Specifically describes the Krogen 42 Trawler.  Published around hull # 93

"True Grit - a 42-Footer Meant for Serious Cruising," Don Sharp, Power and 
Motoryacht, ???.  Specifically describes the Krogen 42 Trawler.  Published 
around hull # 100, probably in 1986.

"Krogen 42," Don Sharp, The Western Boatman, Nov.-Dec. ???  Published around 
hull # 117, probably in 1986.

"Little Ships That Could," Bob Armstrong, Power & Motoryacht, Nov. 1989.  
Discusses various trawlers, including Krogens.

"Tripping on LSD - as in Long, Slow, Distance," Bill Pike, Boating Magazine, 
October 1991.  Discusses various trawlers, including Krogens.

"Home Afloat," Louisa Rudeen, Motor Boating & Sailing, Feb. 1993, pp 59-61, 
88-89.  Specifically describes the Krogen 42 Trawler, widebody variation.

"Is a Fast Trawler Still A Trawler? - The 8-knot crowd says pepped-up models 
leave true workboat values behind," Jim Flannery, Soundings, May 1993.  
Discuses various semi-displacement, high horsepower, trawler-style craft and 
contrasts them with the Krogen 42 and other full-displacement boats.

"The World is Our Back Yard, Husband, wife make their home in a seaworthy 
trawler," The Times/Beaver, Inc., Pennsylvania, Oct. 30, 1994.  Describes the 
adventures of Krogen-Cruisers Members Bob and Elaine Reib aboard their Krogen 
Manatee, Snug.

"Boat Test - World Beater - Krogen 48: Knows Its Way Around," Mike Smith, 
Boating Magazine, Nov. 1994, pp. 89-90.  Covers the 48' Whaleback.

"Trawler Yachts," Chesapeake Bay Magazine, February 1996.  About trawlers in 
general, but the author must have been looking right at a Krogen 42' or 48' 
trawler as he wrote it!

"Wanderings: A former fire chief and his family blaze trails through the waters 
of Alaska and British Columbia," Stephanie Keefe, Sea, February 1996, pp. 
59-61 and 73.  The story of the Petruzziellos' 2-year cruise aboard their Krogen 
42, Liahona, that began in 1993 and took them from Alameda, CA, to 
Bellingham, WA, to Juneau, AK, then on to Valdez, Seward, and Kodiak before 
crossing the Gulf of Alaska on the way back to the U. S.

"The Krogen 48 Classic - Kadey-Krogen's new long-distance cruising yacht - 
sometimes bigger is better!," Bill Parlatore, Passagemaker, Summer 1996.  
Covers the 48' trawler and makes a number of comparisons with the 42' trawler.

"Knockdown," (Krogen-Cruisers members) Gary and Marianne Hertzberg, 
Passagemaker, Summer 1996.  After 4000 miles of trouble-free cruising the 
Hertzbergs have a "tough" Gulfstream crossing in Cetacea, their Krogen 48' 
Whaleback.

"Building in that crucial stability," Roger Marshall, Soundings, June 1996, 
pp. A34 and A35,.  An interesting discussion of stability (including things 
like GM) and why you don't want too much.

"Single or Twin Engines -- Which is Best?" Bill Parlatore, Passagemaker, Fall 
1996, pp. 46-49.  Some more excellent points to "ponder" in addition to the 
ones in my earlier Internet posting on the subject which is quoted above.

"Making the Switch From Sail to Power," Tom Neale, Power Cruising, February 
1997.  Although it doesn't discuss Krogens directly, it makes a number of 
excellent points to consider in selecting a cruising trawler.

"For the Love of Little Ships -- Why Boaters Choose Trawlers," Jack Sherwood, 
Chesapeake Bay Magazine, February 1997, pp. 47-55.  Includes an interview
with Krogen-Cruisers members Norm and Betsy Heller and photos of their Krogen 42, 
Serendipity, plus a photo of the Krogen 54.

"True to Form -- You can't choose a hull form until you know what the design 
is capable of doing," Kirt Krogen, Power and Motoryacht, July 1997, pp. 54-57.
An article by the President of Kadey-Krogen Yachts that describes the hull 
shapes of the Krogen 42' trawler, the 36' Manatee, and the Krogen 49' Express.
Includes some nice photos of the 42 Widebody, Huckleberry, and the 49 Express, 
Lucky Bee.

"Yesterday and Today," Louisa Rudeen, Motorboating and Sailing, July 1997.  A 
review of Lucky Bee, the new Krogen Express 49.

"The Krogen 39: A Smaller Passagemaker That's Right on Target," Bill Parlatore, 
Passagemaker, Winter 1998, pp. 30-43.  An extensive review on this new boat 
-- includes a number of photos of "Number One" and discusses both outstanding 
features and a few minor criticisms.

"Through the Panama Canal: Making the Connection Between West and East 
Coast Cruising," Krogen-Cruisers members Dolph and Bev McCranie, Passagemaker,
Winter 1998, pp. 70-81.  The story of The Right Whale's (a Krogen 48 Whaleback) 
"adventure" from California to Florida with some super photos by Bev McCranie.

"Power -voyaging lineup: only a handful of vessels have the range to cross 
oceans," Georgs Kolesnikovs, Ocean Navigator, No. 95, November/December 
1998, pp-70-71.  Discusses the current production power vessels with range in 
excess of 1,800 nautical miles, including the Krogen 39, 48 Trawler and 48 
Whaleback.  (This issue of ON has two other articles of interest in a special 
section on Power Voyaging - "Roll Stabilization: Methods for keeping 
passagemakers on an even keel" by Earl Hinz and "Hull-form factor: the speed 
and range capabilities of power vessels are determined by hull type" by Roger 
Marshall.

Magazines with boat, cruising, and liveaboard articles of interest to 
Krogen owners include:

Passagemaker Magazine -- The Trawler & Ocean Motorboat Magazine is 
specifically devoted to trawlers and passagemaking debuted.  For info write 
PassageMaker, PO Box 147, Basking Ridge, NJ  07920, call (888) 487-2953, or 
send email to: passagmakr@aol.com.  A number of articles discuss Krogens and 
other full-displacement trawlers.  Check them out on the Web at 
http://www.passagemaker.com.

Southern Boating ("the South's largest boating magazine")
1766 Bay Road
Miami Beach, FL 33139
(305) 538-0700

Heartland Boating, ("Mid-America's premier boating magazine")
P. O. Box 1067
Martin, TN 382371067
(800) 366-9630

[CC temporarily suspended publication in 1997, but it is back in operation as of October 1998]
Coastal Cruising ("The magazine of achievable dreams")
P. O. Box 7203
Bensenville, IL 60106-7203
(888) 656-6669

Chesapeake Bay Magazine (clearly focussed on the Chesapeake, but since it's a 
nearly ideal cruising grounds for trawlers, it's especially interesting)
1819 Bay Ridge Avenue
Annapolis, MD 21403
(410) 263-2662
email for circulation: CBMcirc@aol.com

Southbound ("A newsletter about waterway travel")
131 East Water Street
Sandusky, OH 44870

Offshore ("The boating magazine of the northeast coast")
220-9 Reservoir Street
Needham, MA 02194
(617) 449-6204
email: oshore@aol.com

Mid-Gulf Sailing ("The sailing magazine of the South")
141 North Roadway
New Orleans, LA 70124

And, of course:

Living Aboard ("Official journal of the Homaflote Association")
141 North Roadway
New Orleans, LA 70124

Ocean Navigator ("Marine navigation and ocean voyaging")
18 Danforth Street
Portland, ME 04101
(207) 772-2466
email: 76452.3245@CompuServe.com

Cruising World (focused on sailing vessels, but most articles are directly 
relevant to trawlers as well)
5 John Clarke Road
Box 3400
Newport, RI 02840-0992
(800) 727-8473

13  Where can I find used Krogens on the Internet?

Flash Alert:  As a result of a number of factors (The new edition of Voyaging 
Under Power, the inception of Passagemaker Magazine, the inception of the 
Trawler-World website and mailing list on Internet, the growing number of 
"wannabe" members in the Krogen owners clubs, the outstanding TrawlerFests 
being held each year in Poulsboro, WA, Solomons, MD, and Stuart, FL,and the 
cessation  of production of new Krogen 42 trawlers), "previously loved" Krogen 
42s have become VERY difficult to find (AND their prices have risen more 
than 40% in the last 4 years! --  and leaving price guides like BUC way out of 
date, since many sales are private).  I'm leaving the info below in place (even 
though some of it is pretty dated) because you *might* just get lucky, BUT 
plan on your search for one of the wonderful boats taking a LOT longer than 
you might think -- PLUS, it's likely going to take you to some faraway places!

---------------------------------------

Used Krogens are often hard to find, especially if you are looking for a 
particular set of options.  Increasinglly however, Krogens are being 
advertised on Internet, both with and without brokers.  Also, sometimes the 
clubs know of boats for sale.  For example:

Point your World-Wide Web browser to the Soundings Marine Datanet website at 
http://www.soundingspub.com/ and search with the keyword KROGEN.  Provides 
brief descriptions and contact information.  Also try Mitchell's Yacht 
Brokerage at http://www.marineweb.com/task.acgi$GetBroker.14 or Taber's Other 
Boats at http://boatworks.com/taber/taber4.html.  Checking out 
rec.boats.marketplace is a good place to start.  Also, try searching the Web 
and Usenet for "Krogen" using Altavista, or equivalent.

14.  Where can I find folks shopping for a used Krogen?

For "Krogens wanted" ads point your World-Wide Web browser to Global Yacht 
Connection at http://www.waterviews.com/A-bulkhead/vessel.html.

15  The Company

Kadey Krogen Yachts, Inc. (new address as of May 1, 1998)
1400 SW Chapman Way
Stuart (or, maybe, Palm City), FL 34990
(561) 286-8487 (or, maybe, (561) 286-0171)
(800) 247-1230

Contact them for new boat information.  Sporadically publishes a newsletter 
with cruising notes from owners around the world and information on new boats.

15.1  Krogen Dealers/Brokers (hopefully up to date, but they tend to change frequently)

California                           

Ballena Bay Yacht Brokerage          
1150 Ballena Blvd., Suite 121        
Alameda, CA 94501                    
(510) 865-8600                       

http://www.trawlers.com/krogen.html
email: trawlers@ix.netcom.com

Southern California -- from Santa Barbara south to the border, Arizona, and 
New Mexico

Suncoast Yachts & Charters
955 Harbor Island Drive
Suite 140
San Diego, CA  92101
(619) 297-1900

Northwest U. S.                      

Passage Maker Yachts, Inc.
1115 N. Northlake Way
Suite 300
Seattle, WA  98103
(206) 675-9975 Office
(206) 675-9392 Fax
http://www.passagemakeryachts.com
email: gbboatman@aol.com

Compass Point Yachts, Inc. (reportedly only Krogen Express as of fall 1998)
1001 Fairview Avenue North
Seattle, Washington  98109
(206) 669-1496

Mid-Atlantic                          

Calvert Marina                       
P. O. Box 157, Dowell Road           
Solomons, MD 20688                   
(410) 326-4251                       

15.2 Previous Krogen Dealers/Brokers

As of August 1997, the company says these folks are no longer dealers for 
them.  However, they might possibly still be sources for "previously loved" 
Krogens.

Southeast U. S. 

K & A Yachts
Regatta Pointe Marina
1055 N. Riverside Drive
Palmetto, FL 34221
(813) 729-4449

Northwest U. S.                      Hong Kong

Seaward Yachts                       Nyami Nyami Yachts
0315 S. W. Montgomery, Suite 200     Dock B, Clear Water Bay Golf
Portland, OR 97201                   Sai King, Hong Kong
(503) 224-2628                       (852) 719-4910

or:

Grand Yachts Northwest
2144 Westlake Ave. N.
Seattle, WA 98109
(206) 282-0211
http://www.marinenetwork.com/gynw/kro42int.html
email: gynw@wolfenet.com

or:

Grand Yachts Northwest               Grand Yachts Northwest
1015 Thomas Glenn Dr. #1             0315 SW Montgomery St. 200
Bellingham, WA 98225                 Portland, OR 97201
(360) 676-1248                       (503) 224-2628
email: gynw@pacificrim.com

Canada

Outbound Yachts
2769 Tudor Avenue
Victoria, BC V8N 1L6
(604) 477-9910

16  ABOUT THIS FAQ

16.1  Who put this FAQ together?

Bryant Vann, owner since 1994 of 1986 Krogen 42, hull #113, Salty Lady, 
Galesville, MD.  Member of Krogen Cruisers.  Dreaming boats since 1950.  
Sailing since 1957.  Cruising the Chesapeake Bay since 1979.  Serving as 
ship's Captain, Navigator, Pilot, Boatswain, Deck Hand, Stevadore, Rigger, 
Engineer, Mechanic, Electrician, Plumber, Photographer/Videographer...

16.2  How can I contribute to this FAQ?

Just drop me a line via email with any comments, suggestions, corrections, or 
contributions (including new questions and their answers, if possible) to the 
adddress in the introduction to the FAQ.

16.3  May I distribute this FAQ?

Copyright is claimed by Bryant Vann, the author.  However, permission hereby 
is granted for this document to be reproduced and distributed as long as the 
following is met:  1)  It is always copied in whole, unchanged and with this 
notice intact, and 2) not sold, distributed commercially or otherwise used for 
financial gain; and 3) no work derived from this work may be distributed or 
offered for any fee.

NOTES and DEFINITIONS:

D/L ratio is the displacement in long tons (2,240 pounds) divided by the 
*cube* of (the length at the waterline in feet divided by 100) - should be 
greater than 270 for sea-going trawlers.

A/B ratio is the ratio of the area of the vessel above the waterline to that 
below the waterline - 2.1 to 2.6 desirable, the lower the better.

PC is the Prismatic Coefficient - the ratio of the volume of the hull 
underwater to what it *would* be if the largest section were carried the full 
length of the waterline - value must be matched to the D/L ratio.

L. C. B. is the Longitudinal Center of Buoyancy

L. C. F. is the Longitudinal Center of Floatation.  This is the point around 
which the boat effectively pivots when weight is shifted fore and aft.

GM is the distance from the center of gravity (G) to the metacentric height 
(M).  (Note, it MUST be positive!)